How does our skin get its color?
Our skin and hair get the color in a process called melanogenesis, which is the production of melanin.
Melanin is a light-absorbing pigment, produced by melanocytes – skin cells found in the basal layer of the epidermis.
Illustrated by Adorescience
The process is summarized as followed:
- After receiving the chemical signals from other cells, melanocyte activates tyrosinase – a functional enzyme in the melanin synthesis.
- Melanin is produced and then “packaged” into the containers
- These melanin containers are transferred to keratinocytes (major skin cell types) for shipment to the surface of the skin.
What is hyperpigmentation?
Hyperpigmentation is when your skin color becomes darker and uneven in some certain areas.
Hyperpigmentation is caused by the overproduction of melanin.
There are several types of hyperpigmentation: melasma, sunspots, and post-inflammatory or acne spots.
–Melasma: large patches of darkened skin, caused by hormonal changes.
–Sunspots and freckles: small brown flat marks, both are directly linked to the sun exposure, although freckles are also hereditary. Melanocytes make more melanin when they are exposed to the sun.
–Post-inflammatory spots caused by acnes, eczema…
Skincare ingredients to target hyperpigmentation?
- Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its derivatives: antioxidant, stop free radical formation that can lead to the oxidative damage, and regulate pigment production.
- Hydroquinone: inhibits the tyrosinase enzyme which contributes to melanin synthesis. Hydroquinone can help with fading the dark spots but can also be irritating to the skin. It is not allowed in cosmetic used, but you can get it from prescription.
- Vitamin A and its family: help in skin cell turnover, clear the hyperpigmentation, smooth out the surface of the skin.
- Kojic acid: inhibit tyrosinase, prevent, and correct the appearance of dark spots. Kojic acid can cause some side effects: redness, irritation…
- Tranexamic acid: interferes with the interaction between melanocyte cells and keratinocyte cells, slow down the production and distribution of melanin pigment.
- Salicylic acid: anti-inflammatory, exfoliate to the pores, remove dead skin cells, smooth out some textural issues.
- Azelaic acid: inhibit free radical formation, anti-acne, anti-inflammation
- Niacinamide (vitamin B3): interferes with the interaction between melanocytes and keratinocytes in melanin distribution. And anti-inflammatory effect. 2% of niacinamide used in moisturizer has shown the improvement of hyperpigmentation.
- Licorice root: inhibit pigment dispersion throughout the skin, even out skin complexion. Anti-inflammatory effect.
- Soy: Brighten the skin, decrease redness, and improve skin tone.
And finally, SUNSCREEN
Shopping for hyperpigmentation products?
Go for the “dark spots, brightening skin” category. Try to incorporate these active ingredients to your routine.
There are products containing single star ingredient that tackle the hyperpigmentation, and products with a blend of many ingredients working together. They are usually found in water-based serum types.
CeraVe Resurfacing Retinol Serum
Avene Retrinal 0.1% Intensive Cream
La Roche Posay Dark Spot Corrector
PCA skin pigment gel: combination of of lactic, kojic and azelaic acids
Murad Rapid Dark Spot Correcting Serum: combine tranexamic acid, glycolic acid, and resorcinol
The Ordinary Azelaic acid suspension
Bottom line
Start with incorporating single active ingredients to your basic skincare routines first: Vitamin C and sunscreen during day time; exfoliant and moisturizer during night time.
Once you have familiarize yourself with the basic routine, try to introduce some other active ingredients that target hyperpigmentation (above). Do your own research before layering actives to avoid irritation.
And it always takes certain time for the actives to work, so be patient is the key. 🙂
